Casa dos Madeiros — Aldeia das Dez, Portugal

The Story

Built part by part, over twenty years, on a piece of land bought in 2000.

Our family found this land just outside Aldeia das Dez, with the long ridge of the Serra da Estrela on the horizon. We bought it not knowing exactly what would come of it — only that the view, the air, and the slow rhythm of the village below were worth holding on to.

First came the house itself, built by the local builders who became our friends. Then the canopy, to sit in the shade. Then the outdoor kitchen, the swimming pool, the garage — added one by one over the years. The land filled in around the walls. The bougainvillea climbed the corner. The kamado found its place under the canopy.

Being at Casa dos Madeiros is pure relaxation. An indulgence in nature, fresh air, quietness, granite villages where time still moves slowly, long evenings on the terrace where the mountains slowly turn orange, a beautiful sky full of stars — and much, much more.

— the garden in late August

The House

A house with the character of having been lived in.

Three bedrooms with five beds. One bathroom. A kitchen that runs on bottled gas — the kind that takes its time. A wood stove for the cooler evenings. The pool is saltwater, with its own fence. The outdoor kitchen sits under the canopy, anchored by a kamado you'll be reluctant to leave.

01Three bedrooms · five beds

02One bathroom

03Saltwater pool with fence

04Wood stove · gas kitchen

05Outdoor kitchen · kamado BBQ

06Shaded canopy & long table

07Wi-Fi throughout

08120 m borehole & septic system

What to Do

There is plenty. There is also nothing at all.

Many come for the walking, the cycling, the river beaches — and end up on the canopy with a book. Both are entirely correct.

— i —

Walk

Beautiful walks begin at the front door, straight into the surrounding land and forest. For longer routes, the PR1 Caminho do Xisto (20 km) and PR2 Rota Imperial (12 km) start in Aldeia das Dez itself. The Serra da Estrela Natural Park, with dozens more trails, is thirty minutes away.

— ii —

Cycle the climbs

For serious riders, the Ponte das Três Entradas climb up to Colcurinho is one of the iconic ascents in central Portugal — and it begins almost at the door. For mountain bikers, the Cyclin' Portugal trails start in the village.

— iii —

Swim in rivers

Natural river beaches along the Alvôco and Alva are fifteen minutes away by car. The water is clear, cold in the morning, perfect by noon. By day three, you'll have found your favourite spot.

— iv —

Ski, in winter

The Torre, at 1,993 metres, is the highest point on mainland Portugal — and a small ski station in season. One hour by car. A morning on the snow and an afternoon by the wood stove makes for a surprisingly good day.

— v —

Fly, paddle, drive

Paragliding, canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding in summer. Quad tours through the mountains, for the days when something a little louder appeals. Operators are all within thirty minutes.

— vi —

Visit the schist villages

Piódão, Benfeita, Fajão, Sobral de São Miguel, Vila Cova de Alva. Each is worth a day. The villages have central fountains, sloped streets, and the kind of light that makes everyone reach for their camera.

— vii —

Eat, slowly

Chanfana, requeijão da serra, medronho liqueur from the local Confraria, the wines of the Dão. The family restaurants in the surrounding villages still serve lunch for two at under €30. Most do not have menus in English. This is part of the pleasure.

— viii —

Or do none of it

The pool is here. The canopy is shaded. The kamado is hungry. The valley turns gold at seven, then pink, then dark. Some weeks pass entirely between the pool and the long table. We understand completely.

The Place

Aldeia das Dez — the viewpoint village.

The granite village

Aldeia das Dez sits at 460 metres on the northern slope of Mount Colcurinho. It is part of the historic Aldeias do Xisto network — and, by a geological quirk, the only village in the network built predominantly in granite rather than schist.

Locally it is known as the aldeia miradouro: the viewpoint village. From almost every street and corner, you look out over the valley toward the Serra da Estrela.

Time, slowed

The central fountain still runs. The cafés still close in the afternoon. The bakery still opens early. The pace of the village is part of what you come here for.

Aldeia das Dez has about three hundred inhabitants, a small grocer, two cafés, and a remarkable rural restaurant. The larger supermarket in Oliveira do Hospital is twenty-five minutes by car.

Reachable

Porto and Lisbon airports are roughly two and a half hours away by car. Coimbra-B station, on the main north-south rail line, is one hour away. The drive from the train into the mountains is part of the holiday.

The village, the trails, the river beaches, the restaurants — all within walking and short driving distance.

The valley below Aldeia das Dez, with the Serra da Estrela on the horizon

— the view from the village, toward the Serra da Estrela

A wooden suspension bridge leading to one of the schist villages in the Serra do Açor

The schist villages nearby

Beyond Aldeia das Dez, the surrounding Serra do Açor holds a dozen more Aldeias do Xisto — historic stone villages built into the mountainside. Suspension bridges, watermills, river beaches. Piódão, Benfeita, Fajão, Sobral de São Miguel, Vila Cova de Alva — each one is worth a day.

Coordinates

40.2973° N

−7.8788° W

On the northern slope of Mount Colcurinho, just outside the village of Aldeia das Dez.

Aldeia das Dez centre3 min

Avô grocery10 min

Oliveira do Hospital25 min

River beach (Alvôco)15 min

Piódão (schist village)40 min

The Torre (Serra da Estrela)1 hour

Coimbra-B (train station)1 hour

Porto airport2 h 15